Gardevarre, Finnmark, Arctic Norway, from Mystic Tor

Gardevarre, Finnmark, Arctic Norway, from Mystic Tor

Climbing Magazine Articles Graveyard

 
Head above Water

An article on the deep water solo first ascent of a F7b on Portland, Dorset in 2000. Published in Climber, 2001 (Ogmore & Portland pics by Carl Ryan).

After Balcombe

An article reviewing the range of climbing sites in the West Country prior to publication of Martin Crocker’s Avon & Cheddar guidebook (published by The Climbers’ Club in 2004). Published in High magazine (pics by Carl Ryan, Don Sargeant, & Andy Brazier).

The Hidden Edge of Exmoor

An article where you can read about Exmoor coast climbing exploration in the company of the late Terry Cheek and others. Published in High magazine in 2000 (pics by Carl Ryan).

Alternative France for the Family

An article outlining some of the climbing sites in northwest France, and rating their suitability for young families. Published in High magazine in 2002 (pics by Beverley Crocker).

Armorica

An article about climbing in Brittany, focusing on the principal bouldering sites. Published in Climb in 2012 (pics by the Crockers, incorporating some substitutions of pics in the original article I’m not authorised to reproduce).

Weird, the wrong end of the Bristol Channel

An article treading the seaweed along the Bristol to Clevedon Bristol Channel coast in search of oddball climbing sites. Published in High magazine in 2004 (pics by Beverley Crocker).

Craig Cau, Cadair Idris

An article representing my 90s affair with ‘the perfect mountain’ Cadair Idris. Published in High magazine in 1997 (pics by John Sumner and Don Sargeant).

Back to the Black

An article illuminating trad developments on the Abergavenny escarpment in the 2000s including upon various new walls and Gilwern East (long before the bolts arrived and existing routes were unfortunately retrobolted). Published in Climb in 2008 (pics by Jonathan Crocker).

The Gneiss Channel Island

An article reflecting on 21st century activity on Guernsey, the lesser known of the two main isles from a climbing perspective. Published in High magazine in 2004 (pics by Simon Humphries and Beverley & Martin Crocker).

Bristol Fashion

An article recollecting how in the early-70s I found my feet at Avon Gorge, a ‘city crag’ that owed its history to 50s and 60s masters of limestone. Published in Climb in 2011.

Hard Cheddar

An article, bristling with the arrogance of youth, which released details of mid-80s developments in Cheddar Gorge. At least it helped make a point about the cliffs disappearing under vegetation, perhaps seeding the reformation mindset of the noughties. Published in Mountain in 1986 (pics by Matt Ward, Don Sargeant, Gordon Jenkin, and the Crockers).

Desert Island Digits

An article on a once-in-a-lifetime trip to La Digue, Seychelles (‘This is not a climbing holiday!’ – my wife). Published in Climber & Hillwalker in 1990 (pics by Beverley & Martin Crocker). Frustratingly, savage editing removed my take on Face (a solo first ascent, E7 6b) – hopefully not saddened by a line of bolts now.

Rebels on Pebbles

An article on the experiences of a light-footed rebel pebble-puller in the Forest of Dean. The insecure quartz conglomerate crags, buried in woodland there, will not be to everyone’s taste. Published in High magazine in 2003 (pics by Carl Ryan, Guy Percival collection).

Northumberland Sandstone

An article on a southern softie’s mid-90s Northumberland Sandstone habit. Respect. ‘Not all that is great is well-known’. (And not all that is well-known is great, especially these talent-free-celeb days.) Published in High magazine in 2004 (I’m not authorised to reproduce the original pics, so I’ve substituted some with Beverley’s – her Master Blaster pic was easily as good as anything in the original article).

Swanage: Classic Hard Climbs

An article reviewing a selection of hard classics at Swanage, pre-1984, including some I pioneered with wee Jim Robertson over many a winter’s weekend. Invariably ours was the only tent in windswept California Farm and, bless him, the farmer was always impressed to see us and collect his quid. Two fags and three cups of tea for breakfast, I’d always allow Jim a few hours lie-in while I went prospecting. Swanage proved that a measure of a place is a longing to return even before you’d left. Published in High magazine in1983 (map by Don Sargeant). There is a publisher’s disjoint in the text; the intro to Boulder Ruckle (page 30) should be near the top of column 3 of page 29.

The Development of Craig Llong, North Pembroke

Give me north Pembroke over south Pembroke any day. From my easiest new route, Act of God (VS) in 1975 to my hardest route, Suzie’s Plot (E8 6c) in 1995, this wild, rainbow coastline put a spell on me. This article traces the development of Craig Llong, an asteroid-like extrusion stranger than Ultima Thule. It was published in High magazine in1992 (pics by trusty climbing partner John Harwood). See if you can spot where a playful exclamation mark was lost in editing, the error leaving Pembroke royalty Pat ‘not amused’. All such banter to be taken in one’s stride.

Set to Stun (Phaser Wall, Ogmore developments)

A report on some withering additions to the monstrously steep Phaser Wall, Ogmore sea-cliffs. Published in Climb in 2008 (pics: Carl Ryan, Martin Crocker).

Brainbiter, A Classic E2 of Cheddar Gorge

An article on Brainbiter, classic of Cheddar Gorge, which presents trouser-filling exposure normally reserved for much longer routes. It’s one of the reasons you should never mothball your trad gear. Published in High magazine in 2004.

Cheddar Gorge picnic 2006, and CragAttaK 2007

Merged reports on two key social events in Cheddar Gorge that celebrated its status as a world class climbing site and the prospects of improved access. Published in Climb, in 2006/2007 (pics courtesy of Cheddar Gorge & Caves [SWNS], Martin Crocker).